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Chris's Crazy Contraptions | ATX Power Supply

Chris's Crazy Contraptions
ATX Power Supply

Chris's Crazy Contraptions
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ps39
I cut the backing so it would keep the top from sticking. I had to keep this loose so I could put the screws back in before I sealed it down. Also note the on/off switch mounted on the back of the unit indicated by the red arrow.

Label
ps392
I mounted this toi the rear to turn the supply on and off. Next we will install the binding post, LED and fuse, replace the circuit board and wire it all up.

On/Off Switch
ps48
Ok…we’ve cleaned it up, drilled some holes in it, and gave it a new face. Now let’s give it some features and get it all juiced up! The first thing to do is put in the binding post and slide in the circuit board and make sure everything fits. You may find, like I did, that you still need to do some modification to make it all fit.

Wiring It All Up
post
When I slid the circuit board in I found that the ground post hit one of the riser boards. If I had drilled an 1/8” higher I would not have had this problem.

Post Problem
ps44
The solution was rather simple though. I simply notched the bottom of the post to fit over the board.

Notch in Post
Post2
Post now fits over riser board.

Problem Solved
ps50-2
Once you have everything fitting it is time to route the wires to their connection point. I’m not going to go into the wiring because it has been done so well already. Just follow this link http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply If you are really sharp you will have noticed that my second post is labeled -5v but I have the 5vsb hooked up to it and you would be right. After realizing that there was no -5v in this psu I decided to go ahead and make it hot all the time. This way I could quick test LED’s and such without having to turn on the power.

Wiring
ps54
Ok, now that we know where everything is going its time to get out the soldering iron. After connecting the LED and splicing the brown and orange wires I started on the post. After a couple of tries I decided there had to be an easier way. Molex to the rescue! I pulled the individual connectors from a couple of old female plugs. If you never taken these out the trick is the two little ears on each connector. The trick is to push these in a little so it can slide out. They make a tool for this but you can also use anything small enough to get to the bottom of the connector. A jewelers screwdriver works great and so does the tip of your X-acto knife. Gently pull on the wire while you are pushing each ear, one at a time, until the whole thing slip right out.

Molex Connector
ps58
It turns out that, because of those “ears”, these would actually “snap” on to the ends of the post. Instead of trying to unsolder the connector I just broke it off instead. I then stuck the wire in the end and soldered them together.

Post Connector
ps59
Fits perfectly over the post.

Post Connection
ps60
Before slipping on the connectors I slipped on a piece of shrink wrap. This is what it looked like after I got it all hooked up.

Shrink Wrap
ps62
Ok we are almost done…I wanted to give my supply a little pizzazz so splurged and spent $2.00 for a lighted fan guard and mounted it to the top of the unit. The original guard was your standard concentric circles.

Top Fan Grill
ps63
Of course those had to go…

Grill Removed
ps66
And here it is all together.

New Grill
ps71
Now we will route the fan and light wires through one of the fan mounting holes and secure them with epoxy.

Fan & Light Wires
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